Q. I asked a question for desktop builds around 800$ and I picked this as best my answer, I just wanted to know if it is a good set up.
"i'll give you the basics. get an antec 300, tried and true for around 50 bucks. inexpensive socket 1155 motherboard, windows disk (or whatever), corei3 or g-series processor, cheap burner, samsung 256 gb ssd for around 200, 500 watt antec power supply (not too flashy but they work fine), 4 or 8 gb of memory, whatever costs less. then use the rest of your budget on the graphics card. you should have at least 200 bucks left based on your budget, so you could get anything between an amd 7850 down to a 7770. in any case, this shouldn't quite hit 800 dollars and i guarantee you this would run any game on the planet, most of them on ultra settings"
"i'll give you the basics. get an antec 300, tried and true for around 50 bucks. inexpensive socket 1155 motherboard, windows disk (or whatever), corei3 or g-series processor, cheap burner, samsung 256 gb ssd for around 200, 500 watt antec power supply (not too flashy but they work fine), 4 or 8 gb of memory, whatever costs less. then use the rest of your budget on the graphics card. you should have at least 200 bucks left based on your budget, so you could get anything between an amd 7850 down to a 7770. in any case, this shouldn't quite hit 800 dollars and i guarantee you this would run any game on the planet, most of them on ultra settings"
Answer
Not far off.
First you make a decision. Do you seek performance per dollar, or upgradability and future-proof to add into it over time? They give very different results. The second question is what is included in the $800?
CPU, CPU Cooler(overclocking only), Motherboard, DRAM Memory, bulk storage HDD, SSD supplement, Video Card, Sound Card (optional - on motherboard is usually good enough), Case and fans, Power Supply, Optical Drive, Monitor/display, Operating System (Windows), Keyboard, Mouse, audio output (amplified speakers and/or headset, power surge protector, wireless card (if you can't go ethernet direct).
What is excluded from the budget? People choose "Best Answer" missing parts going over budget to make the system work.
use http://pcpartpicker.com/
Core i3 (2nd or 3rd generation) = upgradable
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-cpu-review-overclock,3106-5.html
FX-4100 is top ended
Inexpensive motherboards or AMD builds could have PCIe as 2.0 dragging the newest GTx 6xx and HD 7xxx down to 2.0 as 6 to 10% GPU performance hit. SATA II vs SATA III is another performance hit on the HDD, USB 3.0? Rear, front+rear, or none, A spot for a 2nd GPU so you can add a 2nd card in crossfire/sli instead of just changing the card, more robust reliability?, there is FAST ethernet and Gigabit(faster) ethernet, audio upgrades, 2 DIMM slots or 4 DIMM. Maybe a decent motherboard is woth cutting bad a tad on graphics. A little money may buy a lot in motherboards. I don't typically prefer an H61 cheapo motherboard on an $800 build. That is for $600 and less. 8GB is better than 4, and heat spreaders and speed, and voltage of ram makes a difference. Maybe get 2 good 2GB and 2 open slots on the MB to add the rest later. A Pentium Gxxx will get you the motherboard as 1155, but it will bottleneck a GTX 560 and higher. Do you want to have to buy a new CPU in an upgrade of graphics? Do you want unstable higher frame rates, or stable lower frame rates?, and, power supplies make a difference. An underpowered system will drive you insane figuring out the instability. Cheap ones can destroy a system by voltage variations. And, it is not just wattage - 12V amps in a single rail is the real measure because 12V powers the CPU and graphics and fans and multiple split rails are unstable in many cases.
So, the answer you have, though generally not bad, is short of expert level.
Here is a $1068 after rebate build (optimized for UK priced parts):
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/lpog
Now, begin your downgrades, and every one should make you cringe and saddened a little that you don't have the $1100. You might cut the price by a different brand on some items without losing quality. Cut the Cpu cooler and make the i5 an i3 without overclock, and keep on cutting, item by item, and note you still need to add peripherals, and probably go windows 8. That is how the best you can do works. Start with a great more expensive build and get it to the money you can afford.
CPUIntel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz - the best for gaming
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler - for overclocking the CPU
Asus P8Z77-V LK - great brand of very featured ready for a second GPU in crossfire
G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory - wonderful RAM
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Reliable and fast HDD with a decent size
Sandisk 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk - SSD for intel RST (SRT) HDD accelerate by partitioning it, and ready for a windows load or interactive games. Not big, but enough for the most important items
EVGA GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB Video Card - A fine card, equal to HD 7950.
http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu_list.php
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Computer-Games-on-Laptop-Graphic-Cards.13849.0.html
(DESKTOP+LAPTOP+RESTRICT. Estimate for missing by G3D)
Cooler Master HAF 922 ATX Mid Tower Case - A nice USB 3.0 well cooled case that looks great. Antec 302 is cheaper and works. There are others.
Corsair Enthusiast 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified PSU - Nice reliable, and enough to just add a second GTX 660 ti. two 6+2 connectors. Single rail. There are others that are good also.
LG GH24NS90 DVD/CD Writer does the job
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) - without an operating system, it is room decoration, and not a computer.
-- Now, re-shop, and cut, and may every cut make you sad, and you end up as the very best you can possibly be.
Not far off.
First you make a decision. Do you seek performance per dollar, or upgradability and future-proof to add into it over time? They give very different results. The second question is what is included in the $800?
CPU, CPU Cooler(overclocking only), Motherboard, DRAM Memory, bulk storage HDD, SSD supplement, Video Card, Sound Card (optional - on motherboard is usually good enough), Case and fans, Power Supply, Optical Drive, Monitor/display, Operating System (Windows), Keyboard, Mouse, audio output (amplified speakers and/or headset, power surge protector, wireless card (if you can't go ethernet direct).
What is excluded from the budget? People choose "Best Answer" missing parts going over budget to make the system work.
use http://pcpartpicker.com/
Core i3 (2nd or 3rd generation) = upgradable
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-cpu-review-overclock,3106-5.html
FX-4100 is top ended
Inexpensive motherboards or AMD builds could have PCIe as 2.0 dragging the newest GTx 6xx and HD 7xxx down to 2.0 as 6 to 10% GPU performance hit. SATA II vs SATA III is another performance hit on the HDD, USB 3.0? Rear, front+rear, or none, A spot for a 2nd GPU so you can add a 2nd card in crossfire/sli instead of just changing the card, more robust reliability?, there is FAST ethernet and Gigabit(faster) ethernet, audio upgrades, 2 DIMM slots or 4 DIMM. Maybe a decent motherboard is woth cutting bad a tad on graphics. A little money may buy a lot in motherboards. I don't typically prefer an H61 cheapo motherboard on an $800 build. That is for $600 and less. 8GB is better than 4, and heat spreaders and speed, and voltage of ram makes a difference. Maybe get 2 good 2GB and 2 open slots on the MB to add the rest later. A Pentium Gxxx will get you the motherboard as 1155, but it will bottleneck a GTX 560 and higher. Do you want to have to buy a new CPU in an upgrade of graphics? Do you want unstable higher frame rates, or stable lower frame rates?, and, power supplies make a difference. An underpowered system will drive you insane figuring out the instability. Cheap ones can destroy a system by voltage variations. And, it is not just wattage - 12V amps in a single rail is the real measure because 12V powers the CPU and graphics and fans and multiple split rails are unstable in many cases.
So, the answer you have, though generally not bad, is short of expert level.
Here is a $1068 after rebate build (optimized for UK priced parts):
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/lpog
Now, begin your downgrades, and every one should make you cringe and saddened a little that you don't have the $1100. You might cut the price by a different brand on some items without losing quality. Cut the Cpu cooler and make the i5 an i3 without overclock, and keep on cutting, item by item, and note you still need to add peripherals, and probably go windows 8. That is how the best you can do works. Start with a great more expensive build and get it to the money you can afford.
CPUIntel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz - the best for gaming
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler - for overclocking the CPU
Asus P8Z77-V LK - great brand of very featured ready for a second GPU in crossfire
G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory - wonderful RAM
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Reliable and fast HDD with a decent size
Sandisk 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk - SSD for intel RST (SRT) HDD accelerate by partitioning it, and ready for a windows load or interactive games. Not big, but enough for the most important items
EVGA GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB Video Card - A fine card, equal to HD 7950.
http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu_list.php
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Computer-Games-on-Laptop-Graphic-Cards.13849.0.html
(DESKTOP+LAPTOP+RESTRICT. Estimate for missing by G3D)
Cooler Master HAF 922 ATX Mid Tower Case - A nice USB 3.0 well cooled case that looks great. Antec 302 is cheaper and works. There are others.
Corsair Enthusiast 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified PSU - Nice reliable, and enough to just add a second GTX 660 ti. two 6+2 connectors. Single rail. There are others that are good also.
LG GH24NS90 DVD/CD Writer does the job
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) - without an operating system, it is room decoration, and not a computer.
-- Now, re-shop, and cut, and may every cut make you sad, and you end up as the very best you can possibly be.
I get a blank verification code when signing into chat. What do I do? It's been weeks now.?
birdmanmi
Answer
What are the system requirements for Voice Chat?
System requirements for using Voice Chat:
Windows 2000/ XP/Vista
Pentium class processor of at least 1 GHz
Internet Explorer (version 5.5 or later)
At least 256 MB RAM
A microphone, sound card, and speakers
A non-proxy connection to the Internet
(A broadband connection is recommended, but not essential)
What are the system requirements for Voice Chat?
System requirements for using Voice Chat:
Windows 2000/ XP/Vista
Pentium class processor of at least 1 GHz
Internet Explorer (version 5.5 or later)
At least 256 MB RAM
A microphone, sound card, and speakers
A non-proxy connection to the Internet
(A broadband connection is recommended, but not essential)
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