best speaker system under 1500 image
Mc Blub
I have all ways been taughtto have speaker with a higher power rating than the amp could output, so that there is no way you could blow the speakers. What do other people take some 1500 watt speakers (peak) 750 RMS at 8 ohms what power amp would be ssuitablefor that. Would you over or under amp the speakers.
Thanks
Answer
In the professional audio world (DJ's & concert sound) the rule of thumb is that the amp should be able to deliver AT LEAST the rated power of the speakers. More is better if the system is run with care.
The key is to make sure you do not push your system so loud that the amp goes into clipping. Amp clipping damages speakers. A lower powered amp will reach the clipping point sooner for a given volume level. If you want your speakers to last, watch your amp clip lights - they should light up rarely.
To answer your question...overamping is better but it should be done with knowledge and experience.
In the professional audio world (DJ's & concert sound) the rule of thumb is that the amp should be able to deliver AT LEAST the rated power of the speakers. More is better if the system is run with care.
The key is to make sure you do not push your system so loud that the amp goes into clipping. Amp clipping damages speakers. A lower powered amp will reach the clipping point sooner for a given volume level. If you want your speakers to last, watch your amp clip lights - they should light up rarely.
To answer your question...overamping is better but it should be done with knowledge and experience.
Cost of installing 2 twelve inch Kicker comps?
bobmutton
This includes whatever this would take. I have a stock speaker system now with none of the required equipment. What exactly would I need? Deck? Amp? Etc.
Also, for listening to rap with heavy bass, which would produce better sound two twelves or one 15?
Answer
The cost to get it professionally installed is very much a rip off. I managed to install my Dual motorized head unit (XDMR-7710), my two 15" Pyle 1500 watt peak (PLBW154) Blue Wave Subs, my pyle 400 watt rear 6 x 9's, and my Lanzar V-series 3000 watt 2 channel amplifier in a matter of 2 and a half hours.
What you need:
You need to know the wattage of your subs, two 12 inches pushing say 1000 watts compared to 1 15" pushing 500 watts what do you think is better?
You must know the impedence of the subs, whether they are single or dual voice coil, and then you must decide on your amplifier. I needed a 3000 watt amplifier, so that meant I needed 0 guage power wire, and ground wire.
You MUST have a fuesholder (mine is a 250A amp) on your powercable, no more than 18 inches from the battery. I'd recommend purchasing an amplifier kit that shows it's recommended wattage handling. Always use the proper guage wire.
You then must make an enclosure for each sub or a dual enclosure. I made a dual enclosure that is ported. The dimensions were 36"length 13" height and about 17 inch width. They say to get all crazy and figure what exact dimensions will make the best sound but this won't impress your friends anymore, as they don't have oscillators to recognize the minimal difference in db.
You can get a cheap enclosure for your subs already made from any audio store if you'd like.
You will definitely want an upgraded head unit. You don't want to hear music for a second then ONLY bass, then low music when the bass stops. You want loudness as well. At least personally I can't stand if I can't clearly hear the words as well as window flexing bass.
Run the power wire from the battery either down through the firewall, by looking for the area the other electrical wires come through and using a screwdriver to open it enough for the power wire, OR what I did was actually say screw that. I took it right down and under the car, along the side underneath then up through the bottom of the trunk. Removed my spare tire to drill a hole for the power wire to come through, then put the tire back in securing the power wire as well.
I used 3 clamps and bolts to secure it tightly to the bottom of my car chassis. This now allows me to follow this same route if I decide on future additions, and doesn't clutter up my car interior.
If you refuse to get a new head unit, you will have to hack a little bit. But basically you want a head unit with preamp outputs (RCA out jacks). You will plug the RCA cables in there, then push them down through behind the head unit to the floor, and easiest thing then is to run it along the side of your car floor, unscrewing the screws to lift the runner to place it under and run it back unseen. This must be plugged into the ampflifiers audio in red and white jacks.
You will also need a long 12 - 16 guage wire called your REM (remote) wire. Look at your head unit diagram, this is why it's best to get an aftermarket head unit, and locate the remote wire, connect these two then run the remote the same way as you did the RCA wires. This will be fasted to the amps REM input. Probably next to the Power or Ground fastens. Your ground will be very easy. This just needs to be grounded to any metal surface. So bes tthing to do is pull some carpet back in the trunk, sand the paint off an area big enough to secure the wire to. If your car is on or the key switched to ACC when the ground is touches a reliable surface the light on the amp will turn from red to green.
Your best bet is to find a lug end, basically it connects to the end of the wire, and you can then drill a bolt through it, to secure it down. Or else you might be able to get away with duct tape for a while :).
The manuals you get with each piece of equipment will explain in detail how to install. All together it costed me 140 for both subs, 80 for my enclosure, 150 for my amp, 70 for my head unit, and about 50 dollars in things like clamps screws, a jig-saw to cut out the impressions for the subs, electrical tape, stereo wire, 25 bucks for my amplifier installation kit, 15 bucks for my antenna adapter, a piece you will need specific to your car make and year.
It's very self explanatory though, just hooking grounds and positives :).
The cost to get it professionally installed is very much a rip off. I managed to install my Dual motorized head unit (XDMR-7710), my two 15" Pyle 1500 watt peak (PLBW154) Blue Wave Subs, my pyle 400 watt rear 6 x 9's, and my Lanzar V-series 3000 watt 2 channel amplifier in a matter of 2 and a half hours.
What you need:
You need to know the wattage of your subs, two 12 inches pushing say 1000 watts compared to 1 15" pushing 500 watts what do you think is better?
You must know the impedence of the subs, whether they are single or dual voice coil, and then you must decide on your amplifier. I needed a 3000 watt amplifier, so that meant I needed 0 guage power wire, and ground wire.
You MUST have a fuesholder (mine is a 250A amp) on your powercable, no more than 18 inches from the battery. I'd recommend purchasing an amplifier kit that shows it's recommended wattage handling. Always use the proper guage wire.
You then must make an enclosure for each sub or a dual enclosure. I made a dual enclosure that is ported. The dimensions were 36"length 13" height and about 17 inch width. They say to get all crazy and figure what exact dimensions will make the best sound but this won't impress your friends anymore, as they don't have oscillators to recognize the minimal difference in db.
You can get a cheap enclosure for your subs already made from any audio store if you'd like.
You will definitely want an upgraded head unit. You don't want to hear music for a second then ONLY bass, then low music when the bass stops. You want loudness as well. At least personally I can't stand if I can't clearly hear the words as well as window flexing bass.
Run the power wire from the battery either down through the firewall, by looking for the area the other electrical wires come through and using a screwdriver to open it enough for the power wire, OR what I did was actually say screw that. I took it right down and under the car, along the side underneath then up through the bottom of the trunk. Removed my spare tire to drill a hole for the power wire to come through, then put the tire back in securing the power wire as well.
I used 3 clamps and bolts to secure it tightly to the bottom of my car chassis. This now allows me to follow this same route if I decide on future additions, and doesn't clutter up my car interior.
If you refuse to get a new head unit, you will have to hack a little bit. But basically you want a head unit with preamp outputs (RCA out jacks). You will plug the RCA cables in there, then push them down through behind the head unit to the floor, and easiest thing then is to run it along the side of your car floor, unscrewing the screws to lift the runner to place it under and run it back unseen. This must be plugged into the ampflifiers audio in red and white jacks.
You will also need a long 12 - 16 guage wire called your REM (remote) wire. Look at your head unit diagram, this is why it's best to get an aftermarket head unit, and locate the remote wire, connect these two then run the remote the same way as you did the RCA wires. This will be fasted to the amps REM input. Probably next to the Power or Ground fastens. Your ground will be very easy. This just needs to be grounded to any metal surface. So bes tthing to do is pull some carpet back in the trunk, sand the paint off an area big enough to secure the wire to. If your car is on or the key switched to ACC when the ground is touches a reliable surface the light on the amp will turn from red to green.
Your best bet is to find a lug end, basically it connects to the end of the wire, and you can then drill a bolt through it, to secure it down. Or else you might be able to get away with duct tape for a while :).
The manuals you get with each piece of equipment will explain in detail how to install. All together it costed me 140 for both subs, 80 for my enclosure, 150 for my amp, 70 for my head unit, and about 50 dollars in things like clamps screws, a jig-saw to cut out the impressions for the subs, electrical tape, stereo wire, 25 bucks for my amplifier installation kit, 15 bucks for my antenna adapter, a piece you will need specific to your car make and year.
It's very self explanatory though, just hooking grounds and positives :).
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Title Post: Is it better to over or under amp speakers?
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Author: Yukie
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Author: Yukie
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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