amorecherc
I am building my first 2 channel speaker system & have decided to purchase the "Sierra-1reference monitor," pair, as my speakers.
Average Impedance - 8 ohms
Minimum Recommended Power - 45 watts
Maximum Continuous Power - 200 watts
Maximum Short Term Peak Power - 400 watts
Using a Nad C542 as my cd player source in a 10 x 10 apartment room (No acoustic treatments), which amplifier should I buy?
A) NAD C352 - "A massive Holmgren⢠toroidal transformer provides the solid platform for the 80-watt per channel internal amplifier which is stable down to 2-ohms and capable of delivering up to 240-watts of dynamic power."
B) NAD C372 - "The massive internal amplifier features a Holmgren⢠toroidal transformer and NADâs proprietary PowerDrive⢠technology... 2 x 150W Minimum Continuous Power into 4/8 ohms."
Thank you for your time. :)
Answer
You potentially could damage a speaker by under powering it. So in this case use the bigger amp. Just because a amp is rated for a certain level doesn't mean that it is always at that level.
Your amp will have plenty of head room to run those, and at normal listening level will be very nice. And you never know when a party will break out. Because over driving a amp will cause distortion and that ruins speakers as well. Make sure the rating for both is over the entire audio range, 20 Hz to 20kHz if this is varied you could potentially have a miss match in numbers. But both companies you listed are good about true numbers.
You potentially could damage a speaker by under powering it. So in this case use the bigger amp. Just because a amp is rated for a certain level doesn't mean that it is always at that level.
Your amp will have plenty of head room to run those, and at normal listening level will be very nice. And you never know when a party will break out. Because over driving a amp will cause distortion and that ruins speakers as well. Make sure the rating for both is over the entire audio range, 20 Hz to 20kHz if this is varied you could potentially have a miss match in numbers. But both companies you listed are good about true numbers.
car speaker system help?
Q. i have no clue what to put in i want alot of bass so i can be heard coming down the street but not so much that i cant hear the song and im willing to spend around 150-200 smackaroos
Answer
You won't really get large bass from speakers, b/c the woofer itself is not large enough to reproduce the low frequency end of the system. You can get decent bass with Kicker or Alpine, but you'll want to get a sub or two if you want a full-spectrum system.
In car audio, you get what you pay for. If you buy a crappy Boss stereo instead of an Alpine or Pioneer stereo, you'll probably be sending the Boss stereo in for warranty issues.
Brands that are good for the following categories are:
Amp: Top 5: Rockford Fosgate, Hifonics, Alpine, Kicker, Infinity.
Honorable Mentions: Kicker, Polk Audio, Boston Acoustics, Pioneer.
Speaker: Top 5: Focal, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, Infinity, Alpine.
Honorable Mentions: Boston Acoustics, Kenwood, Hifonics, Polk Audio, JL.
Subwoofer: Top 5: Fi, Alpine, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Pioneer Premier.
Honorable Mentions: Hifonics, Infinity, Kenwood, Pioneer (Basic Pioneer).
OEM Processors: Rockford Fosgate 360.2 Processor
On a Budget: Hifonics Processors.
Wire: Kicker and Rockford Fosgate.
Also, stick with name brand companies that follow the AWG system.
Head Unit: Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood.
The only place I recommend to buy any of these products are Crutchfield.com and the actual company's homepage that makes the products so you can get your warranty with the product.
When you upgrade anything in your system, it's best to upgrade everything, because every component will compliment each other to make the best sounding system.
--------------------------------------â¦
A rule of thumb when designing a custom system is that when you add (a) subwoofer(s) you need to follow the following formula when going for SQ (Sound Quality) instead of SPL (Sound Pressure Level): Total RMS (Root Mean Squared OR Constant Wattage) of all speakers should be double to figure the RMS that the subs should be. i.e. If you have a 4-speaker system that has 50w RMS per speaker, then you'd 50 x 4 giving you 200. Then take 200 x 2 which gives you 400. That means that your system should have a subwoofer(s) with 400w RMS.
If you need any help just e-mail if you need help!!!
You can do all this on your own. I can give you links to diagrams that I've made to help you install your system and if you order from Crutchfield.com (which I highly recommend) they'll send you a Master Sheet with everything on it.
If you go to Crutchfield.com you can click on "Outfit My Car" and enter your car's info, then Crutchfield will show you all the products that will fit/work with your car.
Good luck!
You won't really get large bass from speakers, b/c the woofer itself is not large enough to reproduce the low frequency end of the system. You can get decent bass with Kicker or Alpine, but you'll want to get a sub or two if you want a full-spectrum system.
In car audio, you get what you pay for. If you buy a crappy Boss stereo instead of an Alpine or Pioneer stereo, you'll probably be sending the Boss stereo in for warranty issues.
Brands that are good for the following categories are:
Amp: Top 5: Rockford Fosgate, Hifonics, Alpine, Kicker, Infinity.
Honorable Mentions: Kicker, Polk Audio, Boston Acoustics, Pioneer.
Speaker: Top 5: Focal, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, Infinity, Alpine.
Honorable Mentions: Boston Acoustics, Kenwood, Hifonics, Polk Audio, JL.
Subwoofer: Top 5: Fi, Alpine, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Pioneer Premier.
Honorable Mentions: Hifonics, Infinity, Kenwood, Pioneer (Basic Pioneer).
OEM Processors: Rockford Fosgate 360.2 Processor
On a Budget: Hifonics Processors.
Wire: Kicker and Rockford Fosgate.
Also, stick with name brand companies that follow the AWG system.
Head Unit: Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood.
The only place I recommend to buy any of these products are Crutchfield.com and the actual company's homepage that makes the products so you can get your warranty with the product.
When you upgrade anything in your system, it's best to upgrade everything, because every component will compliment each other to make the best sounding system.
--------------------------------------â¦
A rule of thumb when designing a custom system is that when you add (a) subwoofer(s) you need to follow the following formula when going for SQ (Sound Quality) instead of SPL (Sound Pressure Level): Total RMS (Root Mean Squared OR Constant Wattage) of all speakers should be double to figure the RMS that the subs should be. i.e. If you have a 4-speaker system that has 50w RMS per speaker, then you'd 50 x 4 giving you 200. Then take 200 x 2 which gives you 400. That means that your system should have a subwoofer(s) with 400w RMS.
If you need any help just e-mail if you need help!!!
You can do all this on your own. I can give you links to diagrams that I've made to help you install your system and if you order from Crutchfield.com (which I highly recommend) they'll send you a Master Sheet with everything on it.
If you go to Crutchfield.com you can click on "Outfit My Car" and enter your car's info, then Crutchfield will show you all the products that will fit/work with your car.
Good luck!
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Title Post: Speaker system power, help?
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Author: Yukie
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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