Showing posts with label speaker system ratings. Show all posts
Showing posts with label speaker system ratings. Show all posts

Monday, November 25, 2013

What is the best, most minimal tv I can buy?

speaker system ratings
 on ... That's the Name of that Tune! | Car Reviews and news at CarReview.com
speaker system ratings image



The Fatal


I want a tv with no extra features. I want it to be a large display, and a good quality display, but I don't want to pay for features I'm not going to use. I have a huge speaker system, so I don't want to pay for internal speakers. I have external "Smart-like" devices, so I don't want smart tv features that will just make using devices I have harder since I will have to bypass the built-in features, and add a boot time to my TV.

3d would be cool, but not make-or break.



Answer
3D tends to be included in the higher end models which you dont want.

Look on amazon for Panasonic Plasma televisions in native 720 resolution. These start about $550.

Note that Consumer Reports just came out. The December issue has their ratings of television models and prices. I strongly suggest you go buy a copy and see what they recommend.

How to filter low frequency out of audio signal?




Robert


I heard there are diferent devices for filtering low frequency out of an audio signal so I dont damage my High Frequency Speakers. I have seen some electrical component soldered in place with my High Frequency Speakers. Someone told me that this component does the filtering. Can somebody please tell me what this component is called and where i can get them and what do i have to watch out when buying them. I am building myself a costum speaker system.


Answer
Without going into establishing that your drivers
(speakers) are matched to the characteristics of your enclosures (speaker boxes), you will want to gather a bit of data.
Determine the frequency of your desired crossover point. One freq value for each crosspoint between drivers. Just a woofer and a tweet would need 1 crosspoint. A low, a mid, and a tweet needs 2 cross points, etc.
Now what is the max power the enclosure will be handling, and this tells you the power handling (wattage) capability requirement, for the crossover components.
Next - you must know the nominal or marked impedance of each driver. Like 16 or 8 or 4 ohms. Some drivers may have odd impedance. You could still calculate.
There may be a commercially available crossover, of needed ratings, that is already assembled and is installed by making the proper connections to the drivers, and from the box input terminals, to the crossover.
One could homebrew their own crossover. Do a search on crossover design and you can obtain formulas, in simple algebra, to calculate and then purchase your own raw components to build.
There are first order filters - ie: 6 dB per octave slope crossover - which if you have a capacitor connected in series with your tweeter and nothing else, that is a 6 dB/oct cross. This would perhaps be a value of 5 uF or many other values of capacitance, to block lower frequencies because the capacitor shows a increasing reactance or "resistance" to lower freqs and less "resistance" to higher ones, thus the "lows" have negligible effect on the tweeter. These capacitors will be non-polarized electrolytic or a mylar or other style capacitors.
A second order crossover has a inductor and capacitor minimum, involved with each driver. This is 12 dB per octave cross and a sharper change between drivers. Third order (18db/oct) filters have more reactive components and other parts, plus a steeper slope.
Read the search findings and they will tell a lot about it.
Cheap components will equal cheap performance and poor reliability. All depends on what you are looking to do. How good do you want it?

G' Day




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Sunday, October 20, 2013

How do I find my speakers watt and rms rating?

speaker system ratings
 on ... Air Wireless Speaker System (Pair) Review | AirPlay Speakers Reviews
speaker system ratings image



murphy


I have speakers from an old stereo system but I have no documents about how many watts and what RMS they are capable of. Is there anyway to find this info using a multimeter or a similar device?


Answer
The ratings of speakers are the maximum allowable power to the speaker. There is no way to figure that out with a multimeter. If you can get the make and model number of the speakers you may be able to find the information on the web. But if there are no labels on the back of the speakers to tell you it will probably be hard to find out that information.

What kind of amplifier should i get for my 2X60W speaker and 100W subwoofer?




Yohan


i have 2 60W speakers and planning to get a 100W subwoofer.. So i want to know what kind of an amplifier should i get and of what watts should it be..
Not much of an electronic person..
Please be kind enough to help.
Thanks



Answer
Actually wattage is not relevant to much of anything. You don't choose components based on watts. If you want a certain amount of output then you choose a system capable of a particular SPL (Sound Pressure Level) in dB. The number of watts required to achieve this can vary dramatically depending on numerous other factors. Generally larger speakers are more efficient but not always. Large horn loaded commercial cinema speakers can be driven with just one watt and probably be louder than you want. Cheap plastic PC speakers may not play loud enough for you no matter how much power you put into them. So in order to make good suggestions for you we need different information. We really don't care much about the speakers power rating, it's for the most part meaningless. The "nominal power rating" of the individual drivers within the speaker system can be useful but a much more important factor is the speaker sensitivity.

What is it you are wanting to do? You mention only 2 speakers and a subwoofer. I assume your subwoofer is powered? Receivers typically have "pre-amp" output for the subwoofer so if your subwoofer is passive you will need an amplifier just for it in addition to the receiver. If you are not interested in surround you need to look for a stereo receiver with the ability to connect a powered subwoofer. A better idea would probably be to go ahead and get an Audio/Video Receiver (AVR) so you can add a center speaker and surrounds if you ever decide you want that. http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MANR1403

Edit: I have to disagree with David E. Speaker power ratings are not so cut and dry. A "60 watt" speaker can be easily blown with less than half that if the amplifier is clipping hard enough. It can also handle 1000 watts if the burst is short enough. Most speakers are destroyed by amplifier clipping not by clean power. Choosing an amplifier rated for 80% of the speaker rating is not in any way a guarantee of not blowing the speakers. If you like to play it loud and especially if you like turning the bass up, speakers will survive longer connected to an amplifier with many times higher power rating than the speaker than connected to an amplifier 80% of the speaker rating. Heavy clipping of the smaller amplifier will melt them much faster than clean power that exceeds their rating by 2 or 3x. Both situations will destroy them but the 80% rated amplifier will destroy them faster given the same gain settings. That is the 80% is attempting to send the speakers 2x or 3x their rating but is being clipped at 80% of their rating.

I've seen this "80%" suggestion numerous times here on Yahoo and I don't know where it comes from but it is very bad advice.

mk




Powered by Yahoo! Answers