Matthew
How do you wire a system in your car? I know you need to buy speakers a sub and a amp but what connects to what?
Answer
Youtube is your friend, but I'll take the bait anyway.
HU's are best installed using a wiring harness. They plug into the car's stock radio harness and give you the req'd bare wires to connect to the new HU. Soldered connections with heat shrink insulation work best, but require the most time and skill. Crimp caps are quick, easy, and effective if used correctly.
In most cases a dash kit will be needed as well - they adapt your dash opening to be fitted with the new HU.
Amp -
Power wire - typically 4 or 8 awg, is run from the battery to the amp (+) terminal. This wire needs to be fused near the battery.
Ground - Same size as the power wire. Runs from the amp (-) to a ground location somewhere near the amp. The ground connection needs to be a bare metal connection w/no paint, dirt or debris. It should also be a sizable piece of metal.
Remote - small gauge wire that runs from the HU's remote turn on lead to the amp's "rem" terminal. This triggers the amp's turn-on circuit when the HU is turned on.
Signal (RCA cables) - Run from the HU's rca pre-amp outputs to the amp. They carry the music signal from the HU to the amp.
Speaker wire - Usually 12 awg (for sub(s)) to 16 awg (for speakers) - has to be routed under carpets, trim panels, door panels etc to the speakers/sub(s).
Speakers -- it's always easiest to match the stock speaker size and use the stock locations, but a good installer can always come up with a location that sounds better. Custom speaker install can be time consuming and expensive.
Subs -- They need a box, but not any ol' box. For a sub to sound its best it needs to have an enclosure specifically designed and built according to their electro-mechanical specifications -- commonly referred to as thiele-small, or t/s specs. A great sub in a bad box can easily be out-performed by a decent sub in a quality box.
If you insist on a pre-fabricated box (most people do) at least take the time to make sure the internal volume (sealed or ported) and tuning frequency (ported only) are similar to the manufacturer's recommendation.
Youtube is your friend, but I'll take the bait anyway.
HU's are best installed using a wiring harness. They plug into the car's stock radio harness and give you the req'd bare wires to connect to the new HU. Soldered connections with heat shrink insulation work best, but require the most time and skill. Crimp caps are quick, easy, and effective if used correctly.
In most cases a dash kit will be needed as well - they adapt your dash opening to be fitted with the new HU.
Amp -
Power wire - typically 4 or 8 awg, is run from the battery to the amp (+) terminal. This wire needs to be fused near the battery.
Ground - Same size as the power wire. Runs from the amp (-) to a ground location somewhere near the amp. The ground connection needs to be a bare metal connection w/no paint, dirt or debris. It should also be a sizable piece of metal.
Remote - small gauge wire that runs from the HU's remote turn on lead to the amp's "rem" terminal. This triggers the amp's turn-on circuit when the HU is turned on.
Signal (RCA cables) - Run from the HU's rca pre-amp outputs to the amp. They carry the music signal from the HU to the amp.
Speaker wire - Usually 12 awg (for sub(s)) to 16 awg (for speakers) - has to be routed under carpets, trim panels, door panels etc to the speakers/sub(s).
Speakers -- it's always easiest to match the stock speaker size and use the stock locations, but a good installer can always come up with a location that sounds better. Custom speaker install can be time consuming and expensive.
Subs -- They need a box, but not any ol' box. For a sub to sound its best it needs to have an enclosure specifically designed and built according to their electro-mechanical specifications -- commonly referred to as thiele-small, or t/s specs. A great sub in a bad box can easily be out-performed by a decent sub in a quality box.
If you insist on a pre-fabricated box (most people do) at least take the time to make sure the internal volume (sealed or ported) and tuning frequency (ported only) are similar to the manufacturer's recommendation.
Stero speaker system for my car?
Flatscreen
Hey guys so I want to get a new stero system for my 2002 mustang...I'm looking on Bestbuy and there's one 69.99 and it's iPod ready... I want it to be iPod ready! Is that a good price? I'm not sure how much to spend on a system all I want is to be able to get good radio stations... And to beable to plug my iPod in! Does the quality of sound change with different systems or Is that just what speakers u have? Thanks for your help
Answer
You definitely want to do more research.
Ipod ready is definitely a plus with sound quality versus some radio-transmitter. However, ultimate sound quality comes from the speakers which are only as good as the power they get. Generally Headunits only offer about 18-20watts per channel, not enough. For good sound, invest in a 4-channel amp to power your speakers above 50watt per channel. It will be the most noticeable difference you can do for a system since most of the audio comes through those mid to higher frequencies.
So that very well may be a decent deal but all you are really looking for in a headunit/receiver are those kind of features along with ease-of-use types and aesthetics.
You definitely want to do more research.
Ipod ready is definitely a plus with sound quality versus some radio-transmitter. However, ultimate sound quality comes from the speakers which are only as good as the power they get. Generally Headunits only offer about 18-20watts per channel, not enough. For good sound, invest in a 4-channel amp to power your speakers above 50watt per channel. It will be the most noticeable difference you can do for a system since most of the audio comes through those mid to higher frequencies.
So that very well may be a decent deal but all you are really looking for in a headunit/receiver are those kind of features along with ease-of-use types and aesthetics.
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